The 20th Century Limited was once the preferred mode of transportation of the rich and famous.
I traveled from NYC to Albany in the restored train car and found it far superior to modern travel.
The $349 trip featured beautiful views, a four-course meal, and fascinating history.
If you thought the term “red carpet treatment” originated in Hollywood, you’re wrong. The first-ever crimson runway rolled out for the stars actually led to this train: The 20th Century Limited.
Bettmann collection via Getty Images (left), Hannah Towey/Insider (right)
Source: Hudson River Rail
Between 1902 and 1962, the passenger train known as “the most famous train in the world” and “the favorite train of famous people” ran from New York City to Chicago in under 20 hours.
Photo by John McCloskey Jr. / Courtesy of United Railroad Historical Society of NJ (left) / Courtesy of Hudson River Rail (right)
Source: Hudson River Rail, The New York Times
From Hollywood actresses like Marilyn Monroe to media moguls like Walt Disney, the 20th Century Limited catered to society’s elite business travelers.American film producer Harry Warner, President of Warner Bros. Pictures, Inc, and his wife Rea arrive in New York on the 20th Century Limited train on January 20, 1938.
Pictorial Parade/Hulton Archive/Getty Images
Source: Hudson River Rail
After the train shut down in 1967, circus performers paid $1 a night to live inside the train as Ringling Brothers and Barnum & Bailey toured across the country.Passengers sit at a table in the Pullman dining car of New York Central System’s 20th Century Limited, designed by Henry Dreyfuss circa 1938 .
Ivan Dmitri/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images
Source: Part of 20th Century Limited Lives On: It’s Home to the Circus (New York Times, 1970)
In the early 1990’s, the United Railroad Historical Society of New Jersey bought two of the historic train cars and restored them to their former glory.
Photo by John McCloskey Jr. / Courtesy of United Railroad Historical Society of NJ
From June through November, the restored train cars can be found attached to the back of an Amtrak train traveling along the Hudson River from Penn Station to Albany, New York.
Photo by Anthony Carpentier / Courtesy of United Railroad Historical Society of NJ
Along with a few other lucky travelers, I nabbed a seat on the sold-out excursion and was transported back in time to the golden age of travel — when it was a social occasion and not just a way to get from point A to point B.The view from Amtrak’s new “Metropolitan Lounge” at Pennsylvania Station’s Moynihan Train Hall.
Hannah Towey / Insider
The day kicked off at Amtrak’s new Metropolitan Lounge inside Pennsylvania Station’s Moynihan Train Hall, where I enjoyed a free breakfast and coffee.
Hannah Towey / Insider
As we boarded, staff rolled out a red carpet (though I was the only paparazzi present).
Hannah Towey / Insider
My fellow passengers ranged from train buffs and vintage enthusiasts to a few solo travelers looking for a local adventure.
Hannah Towey / Insider
Travelers were encouraged to dress up in period clothing for the most authentic experience.
Photo by Mark Forman / Courtesy of United Railroad Historical Society of NJ
My $349 ticket got me a seat in the “Hickory Creek” observation car with panorama views of the Hudson River — the very same car where the stars once wined and dined.
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From the furniture to the seating arrangements, everything looked exactly the same as the car’s original interior, designed by the acclaimed industrial designer Henry Dreyfuss.The “Hickory Creek” observation car of the 1948 edition of 20th Century Limited train.
Bettmann / Contributor via Getty Images
The “first-class” ticket included a four-course meal cooked by the onboard chef, as well as unlimited beer and wine.
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Our waiter Lou made sure everyone’s glass was always full and was incredibly knowledgeable about the train’s history. Serving champagne on a moving train is no easy task.
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Since the original 20th Century Limited train also traveled along the Hudson River, the observation car’s windows were designed specifically with these views in mind.
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My seat was considerably spacious, especially compared to the cramped seating I’ve become accustomed to while traveling.
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I mean, look at that legroom!
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The rear of the train car had some of the best views of both sides of the tracks.
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But thanks to the panoramic windows, there really were no bad seats.
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Lunch was a highlight of the trip, giving everyone the opportunity to get to know the other passengers on board.
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Our meal began with a hummus and pita appetizer, followed by a beet salad.
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For the entree, passengers could choose chicken, cod, or a vegetarian gnocchi dish.
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And for desert, a delicious chocolate cake.
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The white tablecloth dining cars were a major attraction to the 1948 edition of the train.The 1948 edition of the 20th Century Limited had a dining area divided into four distinctive sections, seating 64 people.
Bettmann / Contributor via Getty Images
Unlike most trains, the 20th Century Limited is equipped with a (small) fully-functioning kitchen.Hudson River Rail Excursion’s onboard chef.
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Passengers Kayla Goble and Izzy Elias said they “love everything vintage” and appreciated that the train’s understated luxury had more to do with comfort than technology.
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Watching the landscape’s changing foliage was definitely a welcome break from the screen-time I typically rack up while traveling.
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The United Railroad Historical Society of New Jersey president Kevin Phalon gave informative talks throughout the journey. He told me that he hopes showing people what rail travel used to be like might help the modern transportation industry improve.
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In the sleeper car behind the kitchen, there were two small bedrooms with bunk beds where the four staff members sleep.
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The no-frills bedroom were far from luxurious by today’s standards, but roomy enough to get the job done.
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More affordable $149 tickets get you a seat in “Tavern Lounge No. 43.” Passengers in the BYOB car were served buffet-style sandwiches and sides.
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Here, “passengers traveling long distances could head to the lounge to spend time away from their designated bedrooms or coach seats to relax, drink, and socialize with their fellow travelers,” according to the Hudson River Rail website.The Tavern Lounge No. 43 dining car.
Hannah Towey/Insider
Source: Hudson River Rail
Once in Albany, we stopped for a two-hour “layover.” Since the station wasn’t within walking distance to downtown, I wished the stop was either shorter or slightly longer to give passengers more time to explore the city.
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We got back to Manhattan around 7:30 p.m. At the end of the day, my favorite part was watching the friendships made onboard — something that rarely happens in today’s hustle and bustle of travel.
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Where else would a tech-lawyer turned novelist, a finance consultant with a passion for fine art, a couple from Sleepy Hollow, and a West Village chef all become friends?
Hannah Towey / Insider
