Perched on the edge of a boat anchored off the coast of Belize, a shiver of sharks deliberately glides through the clear waters below. I watch in awe, fascinated by their movements. Then, taking a deep breath, I dive in to join them.
Apparently there is no real danger as these are passive nurse sharks and for the most part harmless to humans. Well, so says the captain, who repeatedly assures us they won’t bite if we swim next to them. But the red life jacket I had put on over my swimsuit (I’m a bad swimmer) will definitely make me some sort of target…
It was all too short an encounter, however, as the sharks quickly realize that none of the expected treats are often thrown their way, and they disperse.
Angella Johnson started her five-day tour of Belize in Caye Caulker, a ‘little piece of paradise’ located 20 miles from the mainland (pictured)
‘Go Slow’ is the local motto in Caye Caulker, Angella . taught
Still, I felt excited by this delightful precursor to the rich marine life that I would see during my five days in Belize. Like most of us, I haven’t been on vacation in two years and wanted to feel invigorated by my first trip abroad. New experiences were on the wish list. I longed to feel alive again, and Belize, it turned out, was the perfect place to do that.
Snorkeling? Tick. Mayan caves? Tick. Whether you want scenic jungle views or relaxed beach life, this small Central American country the size of Wales has a huge impact on what it has to offer visitors of all ages.
Snorkeling in the balmy waters of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, a protected area within 184 miles of colorful coral reefs, remains a highlight of my visit. The Belize Barrier Reef is the second largest in the world – Australia’s is larger but not as well preserved – and one of the best places to dive or snorkel.
Surprisingly few people know much about this former British colony that, tucked between Guatemala and Mexico on the coast of the Caribbean Sea, is still wonderfully untouched.
Belize, formerly British Honduras, became independent in 1981. English remains the official language, with Spanish a very close second, and Queen Elizabeth the titular head of state. This year, Belize marks the 10,000th anniversary of the reef, which is a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Belize is home to the Great Blue Hole, above, a mysterious crater where you can snorkel with sharks or dive to explore the stalactite-covered depths
Enter: Angella swam with nurse sharks (pictured), which are generally harmless to humans
And there’s a lot here worth protecting. This spectacular ecosystem is home to coastal lagoons, atolls, mangrove forests, sea turtles and over 500 species of fish. It’s also home to the Great Blue Hole, a mysterious crater where you can snorkel with sharks or dive to explore the stalactite-covered depths. But the best way to take in its majesty is from the air.
One of nature’s inexplicable wonders, this giant underwater sinkhole is over 1,000 feet wide and 400 feet deep.
Look down the window of a small Cessna plane and it seems to be staring back, like a cyclops from the depths of the ocean. There are some experiences in life that you never forget, and this was definitely one.
According to Angella, Caye Caulker is not as commercial as nearby Ambergris Caye (pictured above)
I flew to Caye (pronounced ‘Key’) Caulker, a little slice of paradise 20 miles from the mainland and home to Barefoot Caye Caulker Hotel, my base for three nights. The ethos here is relaxed. There are no cars, just golf carts and bicycles. “Go Slow” is the local motto, as I was reminded early one morning by Keith, the dreadlocked young man who runs Cafe By The Beach, so I dutifully sat down to drink some delicious coffee and watch the sunrise.
While not as commercial as nearby Ambergris Caye, Caulker is a lively spot with bars, shops and restaurants, so don’t expect quiet nights.
For a quieter place on the mainland, the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve is balm for mind and body. It is nestled deep in the beautiful Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, a 7,200-acre oasis. At the end of a bumpy dirt road, you’ll find an impressive colonial-style lodge surrounded by blooming gardens. There is even a coffee plantation where they make their own brew.
On the mainland, Angella stayed at the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve, which she describes as “balm for body and soul.” Above is one of the inn’s suites
Guests of the Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve can enjoy coffee made with the harvest of the estate’s coffee grove
The Hidden Valley Inn And Reserve is nestled deep in the beautiful Mountain Pine Ridge Forest, a 7,200-acre oasis (above)
Above is the entrance to the famous Actun Tunichil Muknal Caves deep in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. ‘It takes a bit of slogging along a jungle trail to get there,’ says Angella
Just 12 cottages are spread across a main house, each lavishly furnished with dark mahogany furnishings and a stone fireplace that I took full advantage of during the cool mountain nights.
Here, between the ridges and valleys, you can reconnect with nature with over 145 kilometers of hiking and cycling trails, or enjoy the spa treatments. It’s also a sight to behold, with hundreds of species to spot. After a walk along a stream so clear I was tempted to drink the water, it was a pleasure to sit back in the hot tub with a relaxing cocktail.
Belize is rich in remnants of an ancient Mayan civilization. One of the most revered are the famous Actun Tunichil Muknal Caves deep in the Tapir Mountain Nature Reserve. Getting there is a bit of slogging along a jungle trail. I’m not the strongest, but even for me the 45 minute river crossing hike is only mildly challenging.
Our escorted party of seven (including two elderly Americans) arrive at the mouth of the caves, once used for ritual sacrifice, and are eager to delve into their gruesome histories. Then it’s a matter of clambering over rocks for two hours and squeezing through narrow passages. It is challenging but satisfying to reach the main atrium, where I am horrified at the eerie sight of human remains half buried in their undisturbed state since about 580 AD. The most famous of these is a calcified teenager whose bones sparkle like crystals. It’s a stunning yet macabre sight.
“Belize is rich in remains of an ancient Mayan civilization,” says Angella. Above is a Mayan temple in Lamanai . Archaeological Reserve
Angella climbed the steep stairs to El Castillo, the largest ruin at the Xunantunich archaeological site (pictured)
My dive into this rich history continues the next day with a visit to the archaeological site of Xunantunich. Built on limestone with over 25 temples and palaces, the largest, El Castillo, is 130 feet high, so I carefully climb the crumbling steps to get a panoramic view of miles of treetops from which you can see Guatemala on a clear day .
From the moment I arrived in this warm and inviting country, I felt I was somewhere special, and I left with a lingering desire to return for a longer stay.
And any country with billboards thanking teachers for their hard work is well worth a visit in my book.