Morten Jerichau
When you think of food in Copenhagen, you likely think of things like smørrebrød sandwiches, pickled herring, Michelin-starred gods like Noma, and the hygge-loving pioneers of “New Nordic” cuisine.
The Danish capital has, indeed, become celebrated among the international culinary community thanks to a movement focused on innovative cooking, seasonality, and a dedication to ethical practices. And when I first visited Denmark in 2022, I reported on the massive network of Noma alumni who’d taken over the city’s cuisine at every level—from upscale tasting-menu spots to hamburger shops to bakeries to seafood bars.
But within an hour of exploring the city, something struck me as peculiar: There are so many friggin’ pizza joints.