Huge surf pounds beaches on West Coast and in Hawaii with some low-lying coastal areas flooding

THE ANGELS — Strong surf hit beaches along the West Coast and Hawaii on Thursday as large swells generated by the stormy Pacific Ocean pushed onto the coasts, causing localized flooding.

Forecasters urged people to stay away from rocks and jetties and not to turn their backs on the ocean because of the danger of “sneaker waves,” occasional much larger waves that can run far across the sand and sweep someone away. of the beach.

A high surf warning for parts of Northern California said waves would range from 28 to 33 feet (8.5 to 10 meters) and up to 40 feet (12 meters) in some places, the National Weather Service said, adding that There were reports of flooding. in low coastal areas.

In Aptos, at the northern end of Monterey Bay, the surge washed over the beach and washed away a parking lot, leaving the area covered in debris. Santa Cruz County issued warnings for people in several coastal areas to be ready to evacuate.

“Mother Nature is angry,” said Eve Krammer, a resident of Aptos for several years. “I mean these waves are gnarly. They’re huge.”

The same area was battered by the ocean last January when the west coast was battered by numerous atmospheric rivers.

“I feel sorry for the people who are depressed here,” said Jeff Howard, also an Aptos resident.

While not as large, the waves along Southern California were also described as dangerous, with life-threatening rip currents. However, the surfers couldn’t resist.

Patience was key, according to Alex Buford, 27, who was catching waves just north of Manhattan Beach on the coast of Los Angeles County.

“I was waiting for a while because the waves were very sick and it’s a little difficult to get into them even though I have a very big board,” he said. “I just waited for a good one and I got it and it was a long one. Pretty big. He was sickly.”

In Hawaii, the weather service predicts that surf will increase to 30 to 40 feet (9 to 12 meters) along north-facing coasts and 18 to 22 feet (5.5 to 6.7 meters) to along the west-facing shores of five islands.

Hawaiian professional surfer Sheldon Paishon was preparing to surf Thursday morning at Makaha, a world-famous surf beach on the west side of Oahu.

Paishon, 30, has been surfing at various spots around Oahu this week, taking advantage of the waves during this week’s high surf advisory in effect through Friday morning.

“There are always big waves in the winter in Hawaii,” he said.

He warned that novice surfers should check with lifeguards before going into the water and “make sure you have people around you and stay safe.”

Honolulu Ocean Safety lifeguards stationed on Oahu beaches rescued 20 people along the island’s famous north shore on Wednesday, spokeswoman Shayne Enright said. They were also busy with thousands of “preventive actions,” she said.

“This time of year has incredible surf, but it can also be very dangerous,” he said.

The dangerous surf could also cause storm surge that could affect coastal properties and roads, the weather service warned.

___

Jennifer Sinco Kelleher reported from Honolulu.